Winter Weekend in Salinas, California
Enjoy literary history, locally farmed produce, and delicious cuisine in this Central Coast town.
Tucked between the Santa Lucia Mountains and the Gabilan Range in central California, Salinas is perhaps best known as the hometown of Nobel- and Pulitzer Prize–winning author John Steinbeck. The city offers visitors a wealth of literary and agricultural history, a walkable downtown packed with shops, and a rich heritage of Mexican restaurants and bakeries.
Things to See and Do
For insight into why it took only 173 years for California to become the fifth-largest economy in the world and most populous state in the nation, drop by the California Welcome Center at the historic Southern Pacific Freight Depot. The Postcards, Passengers, and Produce exhibit includes postcards that the Southern Pacific Railroad used to attract farmers to the place that’s become known as the Salad Bowl of the World, and illuminates the history behind family-owned agricultural enterprises that developed into global leaders.
Get an up-close view of a local farming business by visiting The Farm, a working farm, bakery, and store. Here, there is an emphasis on certified organic produce, and the farm includes some 30 different crops, from strawberries to pumpkins, lettuce to tomatoes. Sign up for a tour to learn the daily routine of a farmer, or sample some of the best pies in Monterey County.
Local author John Steinbeck was beloved for his descriptions of the human condition, and several of his books—Of Mice and Men, East of Eden, Cannery Row—are rooted in this region of California. The 3,000-square-foot National Steinbeck Center is believed to be the largest facility devoted to a single American author. The interactive, multisensory exhibits cover literature and history as well as agriculture, and display artifacts related to Steinbeck and the Salinas Valley.
On the Monterey Wine Trail, you can enjoy the colors of autumn leaves in the endless rows of vineyards. Sip through a guided tasting of family-owned Odonata Winery’s two labels: Odonata and Cote du Denis. The winery works closely with local growers to produce small batches of each of its wines and focuses on organic local grapes that are grown sustainably. Just down the road, there’s another tasting opportunity at family-owned Rustique Wines, where high-quality bottles of pinot noir and chardonnay are made with the grapes from their estate, Silacci Vineyards.
You know you’re in the heart of an agricultural hub when the farmers’ market is open year-round. Every Saturday, the 300 block of Main Street in Old Town Salinas becomes a showplace for fresh organic produce, locally sourced products, and artisanal goods. If you’ve skipped breakfast or lunch, you’ll find it here, among local vendors or hot and cold food.
When visiting Salinas, one of the best places for your home base is Chateau Coralini, a late 19th-century estate listed on the National Register of Historic Places as Rancho Las Palmas. The Gateway to the Monterey Wine Trail, it’s also just minutes from downtown Salinas.
Where to Eat
Start your day with a hearty American-style breakfast at First Awakenings, where choices range from sweet (cinnamon bread French toast) to savory (viva carnitas scramble). Or see why everyone loves the lemon ricotta pancakes at The 31st Grill, where you can also try one of several varieties of breakfast bowls. Step into the past at the birthplace and boyhood home of John Steinbeck, open as the lunch-only Steinbeck House Restaurant, with a monthly rotating menu focusing on in-season produce and foods from the valley on. For dinner, head to Alvarado on Main, the newest addition from brewery heavyweight Alvarado Street Brewing. Located in a former 1930s art deco bank building, it offers an excellent Wagyu smash burger—and more than 20 beers to choose from.
The Salinas Valley also reflects the Latino diaspora in its cuisine, and visitors have plentiful options to taste the diverse flavors. Start your day with baked goods such as churros at Panaderia Tres Hermanos or Guadalajara Bakery. Brave the lines of super-fans at the strictly to-go El Charrito, and treat yourself to delicious burritos made with tender, hand-stretched tortillas. The lively atmosphere at Villa Azteca on Main Street may be what lures you in, but you’ll want to stay for the inspired dishes, from lobster enchiladas in a creamy squash blossom sauce to chile- and spice-simmered birria served with rice and handmade tortillas. Culturas Hidalgo y Oaxaca serves traditional pre-Hispanic food from both Mexican states, with a menu including mixiote (barbecue meat traditionally wrapped in the leaves of the maguey plant) and tamales (corn masa filled with chicken and mole, wrapped in a banana leaf).
Where to Shop
The shops in Salinas’s historic downtown (also referred to as Old Town) are a blend of art galleries, vintage boutiques, and music stores. Many businesses stay open later than usual on the first Friday of each month, and the festive evenings can include live music. The Holiday Parade of Lights on the Sunday after Thanksgiving adds winter cheer with illuminated floats, marching bands, and Salinas residents in holiday-inspired clothing.
Follow your nose to Gold Leaf Tea & Spice to explore the store’s curated collection of loose-leaf tea and spices from around the world. Take a trip through the decades at Old Town Antiques, with a variety of vintage and antique items that may dredge up old memories or make you yearn to add to your home décor. Don’t miss Downtown Book & Sound, where you may hear a sweet guitar riff while perusing the collection of books and records; it’s probably Dan, the store’s owner, taking a moment to practice behind the counter. See the region through creators’ eyes at the Salinas Valley Art Gallery, which features artists working across a variety of media: sculpture, photography, jewelry, ceramics, and more.